Survival Journal - Week 4

Non-journal comment: Week 4 consisted of a forced march on Monday and Student Expedition the remainder of the week. Student Expeditions are smaller than group expeditions. There were about three students in each group.

The staff finally came at 7:30 Sunday Morning. We held a short Priesthood meeting and then had our fast and testimony meeting. It lasted for three hours and the spirit was strong. We had to use berries for the Sacrament.

At 12:30 they passed out food to each family group. First, we devoured a watermelon. Then we whomped up some oatmeal and lumpy dick to last us until dinner. Dinner was fried chicken, cooked vegetables, and cinnamon ash cakes. I was so full of oatmeal that I could hardly eat the dinner and soon after my Revenge started again.

At 7:00 we had a meeting at which it was announced that our forced march would begin that night at midnight. We were to hike 25 miles to Eggnog Cabin as fast as we could. I wasn’t exactly overjoyed but slept for a few hours with my bedroll rolled and ready to go. The gun went off at 12:30 when the moon was out to light the way. Everybody took off; some began to run, and I was doing fine in second place

when the Revenge struck a powerful blow. I lost 4 places and most of my will power. I began again with cramps in my stomach. It was an endlessly long, spooky walk through ghostly, moonlit desert canyons and mesas. After a while, my pains eased, and I settled into a steady pace. At 6:30 I watched an incredibly beautiful sunrise and I think I learned a very deep appreciation of desert scenery. At 7:30 Lynn, Ted and I all walked into Eggnog together and first. We had covered 25 miles in seven hours of hard pushed hiking. I thought my legs were going to fall off and I grew some prize-winning blisters, but I was there and happy. I am now resting in the shade. Kids have been coming in all morning. Most of them were in by 10, but some of those poor kids are still out in the desert at 12:30. It’s very hot here in the shade and I hate to imagine what those poor kids are going through. Kelly came in about 7 pm and Doug came in with a crutch and bad back at 10 pm.

Monday night we made preparations for student expedition week. This is a period of 4-5 days where small groups of students are sent out on their own with maps and faith to cover 50-70-mile distances. Ted, Kelly and I are one of the groups. We were given food packs for the week and then each group met individually with the staff to discuss their expedition. We had a final fireside for instructions before we separated.

Some groups left as early as 4 am Tuesday morning, but ours didn’t leave until 7:30. Kelly was still exhausted from the forced march and the going was extremely slow. We finally reached the first water drop 8 miles out of camp at 11:30. There were three other groups there too, some with ill members. We all planned to wait there at the water drop until about 4 in the afternoon when it cooled off a little. When the time came to leave, we found that there was barely enough water for half a pop can apiece. The nearest water ahead was 20 miles away and we were quite worried. Ted had begun to feel a little sick during the afternoon rest and Kelly was still tired. Since I was the only one with much energy left, I decided to walk two miles back to an old reservoir for water. I carried two canteens and two billy cans and arrived at the reservoir in 40 minutes. I got back at 5:45 and found Ted writhing in pain. The rest

of the groups had left, so I was alone and quite helpless to do anything. Kelly and I gave Ted a blessing and set up camp since it was obvious that we would not be moving anymore that day. A car came by, but the most they could do for us was give us some good drinking water for Ted.

Wednesday Morning Ted is feeling a little better, but he is still very sick. Our water is getting low and I am getting very worried. We are very far behind schedule now. I have no idea then we will be able to move or if help will ever come if it is needed. There is nothing I can do but pray out here in the middle of the desert. Frankly, I am a bit frustrated and discouraged.

The back-up truck finally came by to pick up their water buckets at 2:30. They were very surprised to see us still there and asked what the problem was. After examining Ted and talking to him for a long while he decided to continue on with Kelly and me. They told him he should depend totally upon the Lord to help him face this great physical challenge. They filled our canteens and said goodbye once again. We finally left at 4 pm. even though Ted was in considerable pain. We had to walk some 16 miles that afternoon to the next water and expected to be walking far into the night. It was nearly 10 pm when we made it to the junction where the water drop was. To our surprise, two of the other boys groups were there too. Ted was feverish and quite exhausted from our long uphill climb that day. I certainly admire his courage and determination. During the course of our walking, we crossed Capital Reef National Park and climbed the switchbacks to the petrified wood junction.

I must tell you about a desert thundershower we encountered along the way. First, the air becomes very still, and you see these huge billowy clouds come rolling in. Then, the wind begins to blow in violent little gusts, and you can smell that newly wetted dirt smell in the air. Next, you watch a sparkling sheet of rain roll toward you and before you know it you are enveloped in a downpour of huge warm rain drops while the sun is still shining and making the wet desert rocks glisten. It’s all over in about 20 minutes and the desert becomes as dry as it was before.

Thursday morning, we cooked a delicious lentil and dog food (TVP) stew. We left camp at 10 a.m. Ted's condition was somewhat improved, and we made good progress. We followed the Petrified Wood road to the Veda Mine Road. Then we finally entered Wolverine Canyon where we shortly discovered a beautiful little spring and made camp at 5 pm. We arrived in very good spirits and had greatly enjoyed each other's company and the terrain that day. I was filling the role of head cook which I greatly enjoyed. We had a big pot of cracked wheat and milk with brown sugar. We finally retired after a good long fireside chat. It is very difficult to explain just how much I am enjoying my student expedition now that everything is going so well. My feet are fine, the revenge is gone, the food is quite good and we have not even been worried about where we are or whether we will have water yet. It’s all just so great, and sadly enough drawing to a close.

Friday morning, we broke camp early because we had a long way to go before the day was over. We followed Wolverine into Horse Canyon. There we traveled most of the day through high walled canyons and dry riverbeds. Towards evening we started to follow the Kings Bench trail, hoping to find a cattle trough of water as our camping spot. We found it at the base of a steeply ascending canyon at 5 pm. Our meal was lumpy dick over TVP (texturized vegetable protein) and it was very good. We expected to make the last leg of our journey up the ravine and over King's Bench tomorrow morning. When we arrive at Base Camp in the Gulch, we will have traveled somewhere around 250 miles. Our student expedition alone was in excess of 50 miles I believe. The last mileage we will have to cover from the Gulch will be our 12-mile run in to Boulder from the Gulch after solo.

Sunday-- Ah, solo is so peaceful and relaxing, but that’s getting ahead of myself; back to where I left off.

Saturday morning, we rose and had a leisurely breakfast. We napped a little before breaking camp and were in no hurry to leave because we anticipated a short hike into base camp. Leaving at 9:30, we started the steep ascent up the ravine which led to Kings Bench. It took us an hour of heavy panting to reach the top, but it was certainly worth it. From the top you could see for miles in all directions.

In looking across the bench we could see Long Canyon. Long Canyon branches off from the Gulch so we decided to drop into Long and follow it to the Gulch. However, several attempts to descend ended in steep 200 ft. cliffs. Finally, we came to a point where we could see the entire canyon. The whole thing was walled with cliffs and there was no way in. It was nearly noon when we discovered this and it was getting very hot. We had expected to be in base camp by noon so we hadn’t carried much water.

Worry started to furrow our brows, but we decided to bear southwest and try to enter the Gulch through a long narrow canyon. We hiked for several hours and entered the top of the narrow canyon. We came upon a water pot which had hundreds of polywogs and little green flecks. I drank my fill anyway because of my thirst.

The going was pretty tough and several times appeared to be foiled by drop-offs. Each time we would discover a ledge or a crack in the wall which would let us pass. Finally, as we followed a ledge we came into view of the Gulch and shortly found a way down. We came joyfully walking into base camp soon after. It felt like a long-awaited home-coming to see our leaders and those cheerful girls again. All the girls groups were already there, but we were the first boys group to arrive at about 5 pm. When we got there the girls were rappelling down a 150-foot cliff. I was very anxious to rappel too, so we prepared our solo food packs and were about to take the path up to the top of the cliff when misfortune came.

Great storm clouds had moved in and it began to thunder and lightning. Then the rains came in such floods that soon the whole canyon floor began to flow. The lightning was spectacular, and the thunder was deafening. Most of us were thoroughly soaked before long. I managed to stay a little dry by standing under a little overhang. The storm passed after about an hour, but it left behind a muddy mess. What was earlier a cool, clear little canyon stream was now a muddy red little river. I had visions of having to drink that stuff all through solo.

By this time the other boys groups had arrived and we began to organize to go out on Solo. Those of us who hadn't gotten to rappel would do so Wednesday after solo was over. We boys followed the leaders up the Gulch where they left us one by one at our own little sites along the way. I was given my site about 9 pm when the light was beginning to fade. It is a little ledge about 30 feet above the creek. A large overhang juts out over it and gives me just enough room to stand. From my little perch here, I command a view of the stream below. Nothing can pass below me without my notice.